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Steele, of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, believes the industry is unlikely to self-regulate in a meaningful way. But the model decided to go regardless, thinking that the experience of living abroad would be worthwhile and that there was always a chance of getting his big break. One model, Jack—that's a pseudonym—says that has increased competition between men and women for the same shows. Ultimately, they're a commodity, and you have to look after them. I told him it was a terrible pickup line. Three days after arriving in Paris in SeptemberI headed out to a gay club, exhausted from the move and a little drunk from the vodka. A few weeks later, he cast me in a music video.

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Growing numbers of young models, both men and women, are heading to Asia, far from their families and support networks, and working in poorly regulated conditions that leave them at risk of being overworked and underpaid. While I was conducting research for this article, one powerful fashion designer, high on cocaine, repeatedly sent me unsolicited naked videos when I attempted to arrange an interview. I was exhausted after 14 hours of castings, and so I did what I was told and removed my undershirt to reveal my rather pallid chest. Asia offers male models financial opportunities that seem ever scarcer in saturated Western markets and in an industry where men earn far less than their female counterparts.

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The androgynous look pushes male models to lose muscle mass and women to lose their natural curves.

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